The New March Club (MARCH1Z) - Part IV
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My AIG is going for 20% no claim bonus this Dec and payment is 30 days after issue date which helps me to pay my road tax first in Dec and Jan pay up for the Insurance.
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Yo Yo Von !Originally posted by vone:How much does it cost normally??
To be honest, is better off for you to go and ask or check out the market price yrself..! Or i will be audited ! hahaha
If $10, $30, $50 of savings is savings for you. It will sound good isn't. It all boils down to how much savings.
Is all up to you ! is just an offer...! Prices are very competitive and it is very much transparent ! -
Hi all,
I actually wrote this out last night but lost it while typing it because I took too long. This is not the first time.
Anyway as the great leader has commanded me to write a precis of the Royal Purple talk I guess I don't have much of a choice.
Lubricating oil aka lube oil aka crankshaft or crankcase oil aka 'orh eu' (black oil) is used primarily to prevent friction between the moving parts of the engine. The lube oil being slippery causes the pistons to move smoothly. Without it the pistons will seize.
It also carries away heat generated in the engine and it also washes away carbon deposits and other acids brought about by inefficient firing. The acids arise from the additives that are inherent in the petrol. If the acid is not removed it will corrode the piston or piston rings and you have to change them, a costly process. Similarly for the carbon deposits. Old engines, old spark plugs will cause inefficient firing of the petrol mixture, thereby wasting fuel, adding unburnt carbon in your piston chambers
Lube oil also provides a 'shield' or coating on the pistons and the piston chambers to protect them. This is very much like coating your wooden flooring with a plastic or lacquer base to prevent them from scratching.
The lube oil is contained in a sump or a container at the bottom of the engine. This automatically lubricates the crankshafts. Lube oil is also pumped and squirted onto the pistons and the chamber during the time the engine is working, much like when soap and water is squirted onto your car when it goes through a car wash. However the viscosity of the lube oil changes when the temparature changes. It becomes less thick, or more watery when the temparature rises and vice versa. So at room temperature when you start the car, and the lube is pumped to the pistons, it is running fine. Later when the engine heats up, the viscosity will change, ie it becomes less thick, in fact thinner and when it is pumped up it might slip pass the piston rings and be combusted in the oiston chambers. This will cause a loss of power and also greater carbon deposits because you are not burning petrol but also mineral oil. Some of the oil will also get onto the spark plugs and cause the chamber to malfunction, leading to loss of power. (Imagine running on 2 or 3 pistons for a 4 piston engine) The manufacturers have therefore tried to provide an engine oil that will not change their viscosity too much between temp changes, ie between the time you cold start your engine and when you are driving your engine for a long time, say for 4 or 5 hours without stopping. Getting an ideal oil therefore requires that you choose the SAE rating whenyou buy the oil. This rating should suit your driving profile. Not so much your driving style. Eg you do not need SAE ratings to account for extreme changes in air temperature, like in winter and summer, or in rapid buildup of temperature as in formula racing.
Too heavy a rating will work when your engine is warmed up but will be sluggish when it is being warmed up. Too light a rating will mean that your engine warms up more quickly, but gets thinner with long sustained hard driving. So choose your oil wisely. If you are an average driver, stick within the average range. If you drive like Schumacher, buy the higher range and if you think you are in the north or south pole, buy those that work in minus 10C ratings. Also don't overfill your lube oil, just don't forget to check if you have 80% left in your sump at all times
The ability of the oil to 'coat' a protective layer over your pistons and the chambers are also important, for obvious reasons.
Also the ability of the oil to clean the engine by carrying away heat, acids and carbon deposits are also important. Always check you lube oil after 5000 km to ensure they are not dirty. This means that they have a high content of carbon which must be removed, ie to change te lube oil. Otherwise the carbon deposits will cause inefficient firing leading to loss of power and higher fuel consumption, leading to more spending on petrol leading to poorer members leading to a poorer March club. We were shown the difference between new or fresh lube and one which was used for 7000 km. It would be difficult to describe the difference. Easier to see with your own eyes
I am told that Royal Purple is one of the best in the world (but of course I don't know that for a fact) but surprisingly it is cheaper than Shell or Esso. A good approach would be to try it out for some changes, say 2 to 4 oil changes and to decide by then.
The good news is that all March club members will have a special price for RP lube oil on proof of membership. Only available to our members!!!!!
Also be careful of recycled oils. Apparently there are many in the market and it is difficult to spot them (eg made in I'sia) Recycled oils are not made with the same stringent standards as newly manufactured ones (so we were told)
Hope you enjoyed reading this. Better still just come for the talk the next time and also get your own door gift.
Toadie -
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NYC MIcra,
Since my car was just serviced by Tan Chong for free, I am still using the cheapo, free 'Fastflo' Frankly before this I have never heard about FF. But I intend to change soon.
Cheers
Toadie -
Yo Dude..! how's your ride...you have been missing in action..?Originally posted by hyperwan:Aiyo do we sound so anti
what's up and what have you added....have you reach 10k yet recall after the last meet up....let's me up for for coffee....share goodies, and treats for your ride...! hahahaha
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Toadie, "free" is good ! is your car below 10k and it is still on first 3 serving free. They dun use Fastilo oil. Is minineral oil they give you for free..!Originally posted by toadie:NYC MIcra,
Since my car was just serviced by Tan Chong for free, I am still using the cheapo, free 'Fastflo' Frankly before this I have never heard about FF. But I intend to change soon.
Cheers
Toadie
Any Field report which you can share, i belive you have attend the talk last weekend...! Too bad and a waste due work, have to skip..!what will be your choice or engine oil. for your next servicing.
Tks and Cheers ! -
double again..!
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HELLO fello March1Z....
we are fast approaching page 50 of this Part IV....thus i'll be starting Part V!
When this Part IV is locked, we will continue our chat at Part V k?
See u guys there at Part V sooooooooonnnn........
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Hey vone! It's a pity we missed u ...err or rather u missed us at the meetup last sat!Originally posted by vone:Sorry guys, actually wanted to go on sat, but hor.. blur blur went to kallang mac to wait for u guys.. when i went there and neber see ppl, i knoe i was at the wrong spot..... sigh.... silly me....
it's ok...there will be more meetup soon.....keep a look out CLEARLY on the posting on our next meetup.
catch up with ya real soon!
Cheers!
tedz
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1. What are the main lubrication problems in passenger car engines?.
MostLubrication problems for passenger car engines fall primarily into the following areas: [/color]
•Low-temperature or light-duty operation. This is when a car makes a lot of short trips that never allow the engine to reach its optimum operating temperature. Partially burned fuel byproducts can result in sludge deposits and excessive rust.
•High-temperature oxidation. Engine operating temperatures today are extremely high while the amount of oil in the sump is small, as little as four quarts. This severe heat stress on the oil can accelerate oil oxidation, resulting in oil thickening, loss of lubricating properties, varnish and piston deposits.
•Passenger car engines deliver high horsepower in relation to the size and weight of engine components. This places great stress on engine parts such as the valvetrain, which strains to provide the high cam lift and spring loads required for efficiency and high engine speeds.
•The use of air-pollution control devices such as positive crankcase ventilation and exhaust gas recirculation can increase the heat stress on an oil and increase the amount of contaminants in the oil.
2. How can I be sure I'm getting high-quality oil?
Ok, Throughout the world there are many differences in the oils. In general, name brand oil meets or exceeds automobile manufacturer specifications, industry standards and governmental regulations. Users should use the type of oil recommended in their vehicle handbook/owners manual or an oil that claims to be approved by the manufacturer of their vehicle. After this, owners may look to an industry standard, such as from JASO, ACEA or API, for guidance. The licenses ILSAC Certification Mark or "starburst symbol" to be placed on the front of oil bottles, certifying that those oils are the appropriate oil for gasoline-powered passenger cars, light trucks, minivans and SUVs. -
HIZ,Originally posted by vone:btw, can anyone suggest a workshop to go to for the following? i am clueless.. too many ads in local car magazines. also a ball park figure for them will be nice, so i wont be " kan chai tou"
1) simota ( drop in filter metal?)
2) white light bulbs for my main headlight and even fog lights
3) tachometer, vacuum gauge
4) alutec strut bar
5) cyclone
6) fuel cracker
7) volt stabiliser grounding wire
Anyone wanna recommend workshops to get the above?? Gimme some lobang leh.... -
very comprehensive works toadie and nyc.
just to add up more confusion to the confused, other comments from the tech guy:
1. its very easy to "fake" engine oils. this can be done by doing some necessary filtration from used engine oils. to make up the lost lubricity that can be felt by human fingers, the pirate will add cooking oil. finally, slap on the original stickers on original bottles, and voila, you get cheap and "reputable" engine oil.
wait till you hit 1000km......
2. engine oils stored beyond shelf life or bad batches are dumped into our market today.
this kinda fake or bad oils business are quite rampant in malaysia and indonesia. most cannot be differentiated unless you send them for lab test, or wait for it to fail. anyway, be very suspicious if you can get oils at a much lower rate than market rate.
3. even if you dont drive very often (esp pple like AngPow), you should still change your oil every 6 months. this is becasue ACIDs are formed from the engine oil thru natural reaction during the short journeys and they will be left to corrode your engine block if left prolonged inside.
4. the tech guy gave his personal view about engine oils position. ranging from shell to mobil to amsoil to RP to others. i'll be flamed if i post his opinion here. talk to those attendees if you like to know more. -
wah lau eh you..... is the info posting in the forum so screwed up? let us know so that next time we put up bigger posters using bigger fontsOriginally posted by vone:Sorry guys, actually wanted to go on sat, but hor.. blur blur went to kallang mac to wait for u guys.. when i went there and neber see ppl, i knoe i was at the wrong spot..... sigh.... silly me.... -
there were a few spare bottles dunno who nicked it. heard they wanted to pass to those who didnt come...something liddat...Originally posted by kkt:those who go but went off early leh??? -
Fuel economy savings for Fully Synthetic
0W – 30 Enhances engine performance and power
0W - 40 Ensures engine is protected from wear and deposit build-up
5W – 40 Ensures good cold starting and quick circulation in freezing temperatures
Gets to moving parts of the engine quickly
Semi- Synthetic
5W- 30 Better protection
10W- 40 Good protection within the first 10 minutes after starting out
15W- 40 Roughly three times better at reducing engine wear
Increased oil change intervals - don't need to change it quite so often
Mineral oil
10W – 40 Basic protection for a variety of engines
15W – 40 Oil needs to be changed more often
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For those who did attend, can we get a field report from the rest. I am sure a lot of us who just read the post can benefit ! Those who dun attend due to their own reasons Â… can read from your Field ReportÂ… in theoretical base.
1. what specs and what brands would you chose to replace “blood” in your car ?
2. what is “good” and recommended…???? 
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Product / Shelf Life
Base Oils, Process Oils / 3 years
Hydraulic Oils, Compressor Oils / 2 years
General Purpose Lubricating Oils/ 2 years
Engine Oils and Transmission Oils /3 years
Industrial and Automotive Gear Oils /2 years
Metal Working and Cutting Oils /1 year
Engine Oil Shelf Life.
In general, liquid lubricants (ie. oils, not greases) will remain intact for a number of years. The main factor affecting the life of the oil is the storage condition for the products. Exposure to extreme temperature changes, and moisture will reduce the shelf life of the lubricants. ie. don't leave in the sun with the lid off. Best to keep them sealed and unopened.
Technically, engine oils have shelf lives of four to five years. However, as years pass, unused engine oils can become obsolete and fail to meet the technical requirements of current engines. The specs get updated regularly based on new scientific testing procedures and engine requirements. But this is only really a concern if you've bought a brand new car but have engine oil you bought for the previous car. An oil that is a number of years old might not be formulated to meet the requirements set for your newer engine.
If your unopened containers of engine oil are more than three years old, read the labels to make sure they meet the latest industry standards. If they do meet the current standards, you might want to take the extra precaution of obtaining oil analysis before using them. An oil analysis will check for key properties of the oil and ensure that it still meets the original manufacturing specs. Of course the cost of getting an analysis done on old oil is probably going to outweigh going and buying fresh stuff. So it's a double-edged sword.
As a general rule, the simpler the oil formulation, the longer the shelf life. The following is a guideline under protected conditions: -
WAH...............WHO TAKE, I WANT LEH.....Originally posted by KamenRider:there were a few spare bottles dunno who nicked it. heard they wanted to pass to those who didnt come...something liddat...
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Originally posted by NYC_MiCra:
I believe why oil u used like Fully Synthetic .......
[b]Fuel economy savings for Fully Synthetic
0W – 30 Enhances engine performance and power
0W - 40 Ensures engine is protected from wear and deposit build-up
5W – 40 Ensures good cold starting and quick circulation in freezing temperatures
Gets to moving parts of the engine quickly
Semi- Synthetic
5W- 30 Better protection
10W- 40 Good protection within the first 10 minutes after starting out
15W- 40 Roughly three times better at reducing engine wear
Increased oil change intervals - don't need to change it quite so often
Mineral oil
10W – 40 Basic protection for a variety of engines
15W – 40 Oil needs to be changed more often
[/b]
0W – 30 Enhances engine performance and power
0W - 40 Ensures engine is protected from wear and deposit build-up
5W – 40 Ensures good cold starting and quick circulation in freezing temperatures
is up to each invid. car owners to choose, nyc is saying that oil is like blood for ur car, take care of the car and it will run better and last longer.......there is no need to compare if the oil is good & is not a fake, then by all means do wht u think its right..........Theory need not to vs experiences as every car user will have its own say........
my 1cent worth then..........
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Viscosity and Viscosity
The proper viscosity is the single most important criteria of a lubricating oil. The basic performance of machinery is based on the viscosity of the lubricant. Viscosity is, if you like, the resistance to the flowability of the oil. The thicker an oil, the higher its viscosity. The chart on the right shows a rough guide to ambient temperatures vs oil viscosity performance in both multigrade (top half) and single grade (lower half) oils.
Multigrade oils work by having a polymer added to a light base oil which prevents the oil from thinning too much as it warms up. At low temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as it's low number (W number) indicates. As the oil heats up, the polymers unwind into long chains which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100°C, the oil has thinned only as much as it's higher rating. Think of it like this: a 10W30 oil is a 10-weight oil that will not thin more than a 30-weight oil when it gets hot.
The viscosity index of a lubricant is an empirical formula that allows the change in viscosity in the presence of heat to be calculated. This tells the user how much the oil will thin when it is subjected to heat. The higher the viscosity index, the less an oil will thin at a specified temperature. Multi-viscosity motor oils will have a viscosity index well over 100, while single viscosity motor oils and most industrial oils will have a VI of about 100 or less.
Viscosity and oil weight numbers is quite a nauseatingly detailed topic. So if you're curious about why a 15W50 oil is so-called, then put on the geek shield and pop over to the Viscosity page:
http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/viscosity.html -
Hi Van,Originally posted by vandagal2002:I believe why oil u used like Fully Synthetic .......
0W – 30 Enhances engine performance and power
0W - 40 Ensures engine is protected from wear and deposit build-up
5W – 40 Ensures good cold starting and quick circulation in freezing temperatures
is up to each invid. car owners to choose, nyc is saying that oil is like blood for ur car, take care of the car and it will run better and last longer.......there is no need to compare if the oil is good & is not a fake, then by all means do wht u think its right..........Theory need not to vs experiences as every car user will have its own say........
my 1cent worth then..........
Field report, yesterday you change engine oil and MONSTER air filter..! can you share your 24 hrs experiences.. with us..! The before and after changing those items...!
The personal touch or experience with your own ride is like a testimonial ! A paragraph of research and articles will be the base of theoretical support to substantiate our claims. Or else it will be like street talk and pple might not believe some of claims or personal experiencesÂ…theory vs experiences Is all abt personal Preferences which you are totally right abt that, sharing with other users/owners.. tks. -
Air Fliter / Open Pod or drop in boils down to what individual wants!.
More performance or normal driving...!
Engines pump about 10,000 litres of air for every litre of fuel consumed, and along with all that air, they suck in plenty of dirt and grit. A good air filter will stop everything bigger than a micron in diameter - everything smaller mostly just floats around harmlessly in the 0.001inch minimum thickness oil films that separate all the moving parts. Despite all of this, there will always be submicron particles that get in and there will be places in the engines oilways where they will gather. Every time you empty the oil from your sump, you're also draining this fine grit with it. -
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er......................ok,Originally posted by NYC_MiCra:Hi Van,
Field report, you change engine oil "blood", and MONSTER air filter..! can you share your 24 hrs experiences.. with us..! The before and after adding on these items...!
i went to autosaver pte (97 kakit bukit ave 1)as they too had a k12 nissan march car package for my 30k which was abt $98............i went there as its cheaper and better service than some places that i went as i stood there next to my car seeing them do my car......so i ask a lot of questions.......
well, i also found out that other car clubs also go there and they r not snobbished or rude for they have told me to change my filter and they do not have any k n k filter so i used the Monster air filter that will last me another 20k.....
i went to used Fully Synthetic .......
0W - 40 Ensures engine is protected from wear and deposit build-up .....for my car my car only needed 3 liters as its a 1.2cc car....
after the servicing, i had a few bottles of glass car wash and a discount on the car package......
WILL GO BACK AGAIN, I WILL SAY GOOD SERVICE FRM ALL 4 GUYS WHO DID MY CAR .......